For the month of February 2005, I studied at the Ramanani Iyengar Memorial Yoga Institute in Pune, India. What an incredible trip! A pilgrimage which I'd highly recommend for all serious Iyengar students. I was so fortunate to take classes with Mr. Iyengar's children (Geeta, Prashant and Sumita) as well as other senior teachers. Occasionally, Mr. Iyengar (Guruji) himself would interrupt a class-in-progress to instruct us himself. Below are some notes about my experience there. I had my first class with Prashant Iyengar (Mr. Iyengar's son) and I just love his spirit - a real feeling of fun exudes from him. He talked a lot about going past the muscular-skeletal system and going to the breath and the mind. I also had a class with Sumita, Mr. Iyengar's younger daughter. Quite a vigorous class - lots of standing poses, inversions and forward bends. My legs were totally shaking like jello - from all the excitement and from still being a bit stiff from 26 hours of travel.

I saw Guruji for the first time. I was outside the Institute removing my shoes, all alone, when the door from his house opened, and out he came. I was a bit starstruck! He seems kinder in person, gentler, though I'm sure he is tough when he teaches. Today was the backbend class with Prashant. We did about one hour of Viparita Dandasana on the chair, alternating with rope Sirsasana. Then we did Viparita Dandasana on the floor. He discussed "doing the abdomen for the legs, legs for the abdomen, abdomen for the chest, chest for abdomen", etc. but most importantly doing it for the breath and for the mind. His classes are quite different from Geeta's and the other teachers.

We have been doing very basic poses, nothing fancy. The focus has been more on subtle actions. In a class last week, Guruji interrupted to talk about aligning the big toe nails in Dandasana, and then "sharpening" them. I'm still not sure exactly what that means. Guruji is often in the studio during class and practice time. Today I think I got my elbows the straightest they've ever been in Adho Mukha Svanasana because Guruji was doing Viparita Dandasana at the stage, his view directed right at my elbows. Whether he was actually looking at them or not it didn't matter, I straightened them anyway!

What a trip India is... different, exciting, chaotic. The fabric stores are wonderful, endless and full of color. I can't get over the bright and colorful outfits the women wear here - the saris and punjabi outfits in hot pinks, purples, blues, oranges, saffron and all manner of combinations. Some women, especially the younger ones, wear western clothes and they are so drab in comparison.

I saw my first camel, as it walked down the street in front of my hotel. I also saw a monkey at the park, and a herd of cattle strolling down the road. I am enjoying the local foods, mostly home cooking, which is so delicious, especially for a vegetarian. There is a woman who brings homemade dinners to us at the hotel for about $1 US in little metal tiffins. The home cooking is nothing like Indian restaurant food in California. She makes fresh green beans cooked with a little garlic, shredded pickled carrots (they're red and sweeter) with pomegranate seeds, lightly cooked cauliflower with spices, basmati rice and fresh chapatis.